South Wales Argus

By Daniel Lombard »

A high-quality bistro with an Italian twist, Prego opened earlier this year and has become a classy addition to Monmouth's ensemble of quality eateries.

Food impresario Franco Taruschio is lending his expertise as a consultant, and the intelligent menu packed with locally-sourced produce certainly carries his imprint of distinction.

One of the most popular starters is the warm salad of deep-fried artichokes with fennel, parmesan and chickpea fritters. 

With its striking contrasts of flavour and texture, ranging from crisp artichokes to moist, shredded fennel, and tangy lemon vinegar to savoury parmesan, it wasn't hard to see why.

The bruschetta of pan-fried mackerel with onion and mint was equally interesting and beautifully presented, but the highlight of the meal was still to come.

My dining companion took the plunge with the salmon with rhubarb and orange sauce and pickled ginger, and it proved to be spectacularly good, the succulent fish fillet and intense citrus notes producing a joyful combination.

The only disappointments were the rack of Welsh lamb with braised summer vegetables and potato galette, which had plenty of protein but not enough flavour, and the rose champagne, which was overpriced at £8.25 a glass.

The generous portion sizes meant we could only manage a dessert to share, and sumptuous baked peaches with amaretto were just the ticket.

The dishes are not cheap but not extortionate either; our meal came to £62.30.

Boasting a softly-lit interior and efficient, friendly service, Prego - Italian for "you're welcome" - definitely lived up to its name.